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Sorry, my bad. I've played around with some of the parameters so I got confused. The tooth number is now set to 60 but it doesn't help. I've attached the updated map and an Oscilloscope image. Any advice is appriciated.

Thanks!

/Stefan

do again the oscilloscope procedure and write the details on orange square as on the pic i post

You need to put the plugs in to estimate the crank sensor position also

You're getting a good crank signal. Next step is to check it's synchronising.
Have a look at this video:


Does your label turn green in the Diagnostics Display?

Also check the coils and injectors are firing using the test auxiliary functions.

Guys,

attached are some print screens. If I want to do the coil and injector test, what is the best way not to flood the engine? Remove the fuel pump relay or fuse?

Thanks for the video, interesting stuff!

/Stefan

ok cool...use 117 sensor position, i prefer it instead of 297

to test the coils and injectors...just remove injectors and place them into a bottle then do the test otherwise you will flood the engine...

with coils just ground them on engine with a spark plug inside them and watch if it sparks...do it for each coil

hope all the other settings to be correct...and try again to see if ecu synchronise, red must be green...

READ them manual too...

Did the diagnostics screen show that the ECU synchronised?

Guys,

I did some additional testing in the garage tonight. The results are:

1. It's not synchronizing, I never get a green label. BTW, what does synchonize mean in this context?

2. before we attempted to start the engine we did try a strobe lamp (timing light) attached to #1 spark plug wire, but it never gave any strobe.

3. We did ground the spark plugs and could see a spark on #1-3 but not on #4

4. Tonight I did the coil test function and I could hear the coil pack making some ticking sounds

5. I also removed the fuel rail and all injectors and tried the injector test function with just one injector connected. There were about three drops of fuel in the can so something is not correct. I also tcranked to see if there were any spray. Or do I need to have all four injectores connected? It seems tricky to lift up the complete fuel rail assy and get 4 cans in place for each injector. Is the injetor type important? I run the original ones.

Any ideas? Do I have two independent issues, one with synchronizing and one with fuel???

Also I have read the manual, but it doesn't really help me....

Regards,
Stefan

Synching is needed if sequential fueling / sparking required. Without the ecu know where TDC point is but not know if its 1 or 4 that is firing. Using batch fire and wasted spark obviates that problem. Injector test doesn't need fuel or dismantling the injectors - just unplug pump relay and you should be able to hear injectors clicking as requested in software BUT not for too long as they can overheat without fuel flow through them.

1. If it's not synchronising, the ECU won't turn on any outputs, as it can't work out where anything is. This applies to batch and sequential firing.
2. See above.
3. That must have been using the test functions. If you are using a wasted spark coil pack, you either have a faulty coil pack, spark lead or spark plug.
4. Sounds fine.
5. You won't get much fuel out unless you also turn on the fuel pump. There won't be much pressure if the engine hasn't run. This is normal.

Until you have synchronisation, changing other things won't help. You must sort out the synchronisation before anything else will happen.
Attached is a copy of your map. All I've done is changed the number of teeth and crank sensor angle. This should synchronise with your oscilloscope straight away.
Upload it, then click the Reset button on the Diagnostics Display, and then try to start the car. Video it so we can see what's happening.