DTAForum.com - a forum for the DTA ECU

stevieturbo wrote:
Ensure the engine has enough air to start.

for me the most important...the throttle body to be open enough so the engine suck air...or if you using a bac valve (idle valve) to be correctly set up

lofstrom wrote:
Can anyone please explain the synchronisation, what does it mean? Does it have anything to do with the injectors or is it just trigger wheel and crank sensor related?

if does not synchronise then you will not have fuel and spark...so the engine it will not start...yes its related with trigger wheel and crank sensor...

and i will say it again...READ the manual

lofstrom wrote:BTW, for my understanding, how are the four connectors on the coil pack paired with the two coils? Is it horizontal or vertical, with reference to my image? There are unfortunately no markings or numbers on the coil pack.

In your picture, top right is cylinder 1, bottom right is 2, bottom left is 3, top left is 4.
So the two you have marked are 3 and 4.

lofstrom wrote:Can anyone please explain the synchronisation, what does it mean? Does it have anything to do with the injectors or is it just trigger wheel and crank sensor related?

Synchronisation is the ECU seeing the same signals from the crank (and cam if required) that you have entered in the map.
So if you enter 60 teeth with 2 missing in General Engine Settings, but have a 36 tooth wheel with 1 tooth missing, the ECU will never synchronise.
Until the ECU has synchronised, there will be no outputs.

As you are synchronising, you should see fuel and spark when cranking. If you are, and the car isn't trying to fire, you either have too much air, or too much fuel fuel.
If it's back firing, the timing is wrong.

stevieturbo wrote:Never worry about your strobe light.

...

Verify ignition timing is suitable to allow the engine to start.

But to verify ignition timing I need the strobe light, don't I?

iceman_n wrote:

stevieturbo wrote:
Ensure the engine has enough air to start.

for me the most important...the throttle body to be open enough so the engine suck air...or if you using a bac valve (idle valve) to be correctly set up

I'll absolutely make sure that the throttles are a bit open next start attempt. I don't use an idle valve.

Alex DTA wrote:

lofstrom wrote:BTW, for my understanding, how are the four connectors on the coil pack paired with the two coils? Is it horizontal or vertical, with reference to my image? There are unfortunately no markings or numbers on the coil pack.

In your picture, top right is cylinder 1, bottom right is 2, bottom left is 3, top left is 4.
So the two you have marked are 3 and 4.

And is it correct that it doesn't matter how I connect 1 and 4, and the same for 2 and 3?

BTW, I have measured the resistance on my coil pack and it seems fine.

1 and 4 on pin 3

2 and 3 on pin 6

for s40 ecu

lofstrom wrote:

stevieturbo wrote:Never worry about your strobe light.

...

Verify ignition timing is suitable to allow the engine to start.

But to verify ignition timing I need the strobe light, don't I?

Yes...but you dont use the strobe light as a reliable indicator of good spark.

lofstrom wrote:

Alex DTA wrote:

lofstrom wrote:BTW, for my understanding, how are the four connectors on the coil pack paired with the two coils? Is it horizontal or vertical, with reference to my image? There are unfortunately no markings or numbers on the coil pack.

In your picture, top right is cylinder 1, bottom right is 2, bottom left is 3, top left is 4.
So the two you have marked are 3 and 4.

And is it correct that it doesn't matter how I connect 1 and 4, and the same for 2 and 3?

Correct

I've now established that there is no spray from the injectors. I also tried the ECU injector test function, and the injectors are silent. I interpret this as being an electrical or SW related issue of some sort and not related to fuel supply. Is this a correct assumption?