Honda B16A ignition coil burned out

[AndyRX8]

Hi, everyone.
First of all, my English is not the best, so I work with the google translator, I apologize for this.
So, to my problem. I have a Honda B16A with ignition coil (COP) and crankshaft and camshaft sensor. When I started it up for the first time, I had a very good crankshaft signal but no spark. Fixed this after troubleshooting.
Then start again from the beginning. Crankshaft signal was good and I had spark as well. Then I got busy with the programming, the ignition was on the whole time. After about 10 minutes a strange smell, I went to search and then found that all the COP melted away.
Then when I was looking for the error I found that pin 1,10,18,26 had 12 volts on it permanently. Is that correct?? When I make a hack at "External Coil Amps" it's about 0-0.5 volts.
Is this the right way? I don't want to destroy more COP's. COP is Hella 5DA 358.057-371, original for Honda TypR EP 200PS.
It would be cool if someone could help me.
Thank you and best regards
Andreas

[Alex DTA]

Those are amplified coils, so you must tick the External Coil Amps box to tell the ECU this.
You effectively left the coils on charge the whole time.
I would check your fuses, you either have fuses that are too big, or none at all

[stevieturbo]

Make life easy....just fit a 4 tower coilpack.

Must admit....first time I did a B16A on a Link ecu quite a few years ago...I fried the coil inside the dizzy too.

[Alex DTA]

Make life easy....just fit a 4 tower coilpack.

Must admit....first time I did a B16A on a Link ecu quite a few years ago...I fried the coil inside the dizzy too.

Ticking a box in the software is a lot easier than changing the wiring, buying a new coil pack, mounting it and getting custom HT leads made up.

[AndyRX8]

[attachment=2]Triggerwheel CRX.jpg[/attachment]Hi guys.
First of all, thank you for your quick help. But I would like to apologize very much as I am just getting back to you now. I immediately got to work on the car, but I don't always have the necessary time. I tried a lot, got smart here in the forum, which also helped a lot. But I do have a few questions. I probably can't see the forest for the trees anymore. :roll:
I'm attaching a few pictures, asking if that's correct so far. Many Thanks.

So now to my problems. I can get the engine to run but it sounds very strange. And the more I try, it gets worse and worse. The last stand, it runs reasonably well. I would like to adjust the ignition and fuel values ​​but it is not possible. The lambda values ​​are not reached even though I pressed *CTRL + L*. According to the manual, this should go very quickly, but I can't change anything about the fuel.

Furthermore, I would like to program sequentially, but the engine stops at 2000 rpm. According to the "Diagnostic Display", the CAM cam is recognized but can only be seen briefly when the engine exceeds 2000 rpm and then stops immediately. I guess I can't find the CAM position, but I don't understand. I measured it with a degree wheel directly on the motor. Note, the engine is installed "upside down" (Honda B16A1) and runs to the left of the power output side. Does that have something to do with the number of degrees that the ECU thinks "wrong"?
Those are my first questions, I'm sure there will be more.

If you have any questions or are missing any information, don't hesitate to ask me.

Thank you very much and best regards
Andreas

[AndyRX8]

Another attachment

[AndyRX8]

One more note:

For "Wasted Spark", really stupid question, where do you have to tick the box? I've always been able to get the car to run "coils in two stroke mode". Or does the tick "Twin Spark" have to be set. In any case, I always had misfires after a short time and I think that the engine only runs on "three cylinders". In Coil per Settings I set One Coil per Plug up to 2000rpm and I was able to rev the motor higher. Lambda was not regulated even though I pressed "CTRL+L". It smelled a lot like gasoline, I think it was too rich.

Thanks and best regards
Andreas

[stevieturbo]

Make life easy....just fit a 4 tower coilpack.

Must admit....first time I did a B16A on a Link ecu quite a few years ago...I fried the coil inside the dizzy too.

Ticking a box in the software is a lot easier than changing the wiring, buying a new coil pack, mounting it and getting custom HT leads made up.

Yea...but you still have a dizzy then. I've coil packs lying everywhere, crimping new ends on the existing leads cost pennies, and wiring is cheap. And then you have a modern 4 tower coil.

[stevieturbo]

Exactly what are you using for a trigger wheel ? If I recall correctly, the in dizzy trigger was a 16 tooth on the one I did...but I think I seen some people say it can be 24 tooth too.

Can't remember what the sync trigger was though or whether I modified it. I think the dizzy actually had 3 pickups ?

Or have you fitted an external 36-1 ?

[Alex DTA]

Make life easy....just fit a 4 tower coilpack.

Must admit....first time I did a B16A on a Link ecu quite a few years ago...I fried the coil inside the dizzy too.

Ticking a box in the software is a lot easier than changing the wiring, buying a new coil pack, mounting it and getting custom HT leads made up.

Yea...but you still have a dizzy then. I've coil packs lying everywhere, crimping new ends on the existing leads cost pennies, and wiring is cheap. And then you have a modern 4 tower coil.

He's not using a distributor, he's using COPs, as per the part number in the first post.