Shift cut settings - bike engined car
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Re: Shift cut settings - bike engined car
John has proper sensor so a non issue in this case
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Re: Shift cut settings - bike engined car
Thanks but the gear pot is not in question. It is the correct type for closed loop. My only concern is the settings
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Re: Shift cut settings - bike engined car
Do a screen dump of all of them for a sanity check, photo is rubbish
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Re: Shift cut settings - bike engined car
Here you go Rob.
The first image is as the settings were with shift problems (40 deg retard)
The last 2 are my settings as they are now (untried) but with more retard and different chart settings
Thanks
John
The first image is as the settings were with shift problems (40 deg retard)
The last 2 are my settings as they are now (untried) but with more retard and different chart settings
Thanks
John
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Re: Shift cut settings - bike engined car
No, that won't work.katana wrote: ↑Sat May 07, 2022 11:24 amIf the K8 GPS is like the Hayabusa one, it should provide what Alex says is a requirement. Switch has 5v In, Ground and different fixed voltage output subject to each gear eg. 1st = 0.75v, N = 1.2v, 2nd = 1.8v, 3rd = 2.5v, 4th = 3.2v, 5th = 3.9v and 6th = 4.7v (voltages are hypothetical for the example)Alex DTA wrote: ↑Sat May 07, 2022 2:11 amIf that's the case, then that set up cannot be used for paddle shift. The ECU needs to see the voltage change to initiate the cut/retard strategy.David Ferguson wrote: ↑Fri May 06, 2022 5:02 pm Since the Suzuki K8 has a gear position switch (not a variable pot), there might be an issue when you are between gears - it other words it might stop the cut too soon. So, I would consider unchecking "use switch to start, pot to finish".
Even if the DTA is looking for a 'change,' doesn't the null time between gears count as a 'voltage change' as volts will drop to 0v between outputs.
If the shift cut start point is 30 mV, and a gear is at 1000 mV, then the shift cut will activate when the voltage goes above 1030 mV. Going to zero will not trigger the shift.
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Re: Shift cut settings - bike engined car
Reduce the shift cut start point, 65 mV is probably too high. In the higher gears the barrel may not move enough to trigger the shift due to the load.John Loudon wrote: ↑Sun May 08, 2022 6:07 am Here you go Rob.
The first image is as the settings were with shift problems (40 deg retard)
The last 2 are my settings as they are now (untried) but with more retard and different chart settings
Thanks
John
Reduce the gear filter value. 4 should be sufficient.
You have throttle blip enabled. You shouldn't do that here, you should have that set up in the paddle shift.
I would also try with zero ramp in time on the initiation. There are very few engine that require that. While yours does meet most of the criteria, it could also be hampering the shift.
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Re: Shift cut settings - bike engined car
To find the best triger point I do the following.
Put the car in say 3rd gear, engine off. And pull the car backwards to load up the dogs just like it's running hard, then operate the gear leaver gently to change up whilst viewing the pot voltage, this will help you understand how much the barrel rotates before all the slop in the selector forks is removed. You should do this for all gears, then select you cut point to be a little less than the lowest reading you get.
Put the car in say 3rd gear, engine off. And pull the car backwards to load up the dogs just like it's running hard, then operate the gear leaver gently to change up whilst viewing the pot voltage, this will help you understand how much the barrel rotates before all the slop in the selector forks is removed. You should do this for all gears, then select you cut point to be a little less than the lowest reading you get.
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Re: Shift cut settings - bike engined car
Also I recomend setting the gear position voltages with the engine running to be as accurate as possible
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Re: Shift cut settings - bike engined car
Thanks Alex and Rob. Will give it a go