Honda CB600F Hornet - Unknown crank wheel

Discuss which Sensors work best with these ECUs and share how you are using inputs and outputs
mansson
Posts: 4
Joined: Sun Apr 23, 2017 11:57 am
ECU Model: S60 Pro

Re: Honda CB600F Hornet - Unknown crank wheel

Post by mansson »

katana wrote:It may be the 3 missing teeth are the issue. As each tooth is at 22.5 deg spacing - angular distance between last tooth and first tooth is near 90 degrees so the ecu doesn't get a 'countdown' or however it works ! ! ! - i'm guessing here - you may have guessed!
Its a strange oscilloscope trace and seems to show variation in frequency (rotational speed) and amplitude (like variation in tooth / sensor height?)
stevieturbo wrote:Trace looks normal ?

amplitude of the trace will vary with rpm and a VR sensor, hence each time as a cylinder is on compression the trace gets a little wider apart and lower amplitude.

Although the actual scope trace does look a good strong clean signal. Although there is no voltage scaling provided.
Exactly what stevieturbo said. I think the voltage is 5 volt per "box" in the oscilloscope diagram.
Alex DTA wrote:Does the ECU synchronise, and then throw lots of crank errors, then lose synch again?
With spark plugs, it only says "attempting to synchronise" and nothing happens. So no, it does not sync and then lose again. It does sync without plugs though, and says "attempting to start" and as said before, we get the correct amount of missing teeth when the speed is higher.

Update: Somehow, without really changing anything, it's now synchronising with plugs! The crankshaft oscilloscope still says 2 teeth missing but I guess that's okay. Now we just gotta figure out the sensor position angle BTDC, then we'll try firing it up. Thanks for your help! I'll be back if we find more problems...
stevieturbo
Posts: 3577
Joined: Tue Aug 02, 2011 12:08 pm
ECU Model: No ECU
Location: Norn Iron

Re: Honda CB600F Hornet - Unknown crank wheel

Post by stevieturbo »

When you say it says 2 teeth missing....the previous scope you posted showed 13 teeth every time ?
Which there are ?
Alex DTA
Posts: 1622
Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2014 1:03 pm
ECU Model: S40 Pro
Distributor: DTA
Firmware Version: 79

Re: Honda CB600F Hornet - Unknown crank wheel

Post by Alex DTA »

stevieturbo wrote:When you say it says 2 teeth missing....the previous scope you posted showed 13 teeth every time ?
Which there are ?
The colour of the large spike is blue, indicating two missing teeth.
Three missing teeth should be red.
Alex DTA
Posts: 1622
Joined: Fri Feb 28, 2014 1:03 pm
ECU Model: S40 Pro
Distributor: DTA
Firmware Version: 79

Re: Honda CB600F Hornet - Unknown crank wheel

Post by Alex DTA »

mansson wrote:Exactly what stevieturbo said. I think the voltage is 5 volt per "box" in the oscilloscope diagram.
The lines on the graph indicate the time between each tooth. That's why the missing tooth is so long.
Click on each tooth to see the time.
There's no voltage reference in the scope at all.
mansson wrote:Update: Somehow, without really changing anything, it's now synchronising with plugs! The crankshaft oscilloscope still says 2 teeth missing but I guess that's okay. Now we just gotta figure out the sensor position angle BTDC, then we'll try firing it up. Thanks for your help! I'll be back if we find more problems...
Glad you're sorted.
skelly
Posts: 39
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2016 8:35 am
ECU Model: S40 Pro

Re: Honda CB600F Hornet - Unknown crank wheel

Post by skelly »

That trigger wheel looks quite easy to modify if needed.
ie machine it down to a boss and fit a 24-2 wheel to it.
In my trials with DTA and my motorbike engine I discovered that 24-2 works very well and thats on a great big GSX1170 lump with the usual cronky starter clutch.
the problem you may have is setting the timing with a strobe light, I can see it turning into an oily mess..
If you bore out an old spark plug you can fit a dti clock into it with an extension that touches the top of the piston at tdc.
crank the engine in the direction of rotation untill you find tdc then wind it back and come back towards tdc but stop say 10 or 20 thou before tdc, mark the timing wheel.
Then continue past tdc to the same value as before and mark the timing wheel again.
Between these two marks is true tdc.
you can then work out your crank sensor position within a degree.
I did it this way on mine and it was about a degree out on the strobe.
Hope that helps.
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