Driving an electric water pump from DTA S80

[proutyc]

Thanks. More how well does the cooling work and how would you make it run on full if you had a sensor failure?? That's what I'm most worried about

Thanks

[lumley32]

just a thort, if you have the water pump turning full on to full off then as it the engine warms up the pump will turn full on causing a rush of cold water going from the rad to the block, witch could well cause

1) the pump to turn off
2) the water temp comps to pull very rich
3) cracking of the head or cylinders due to thermal shock

this is why there is always a small bypass on thermostats, and why the water pump controllers only drop to a low speed and not turn off

still think you would be better off using PWM to control the water pump and a timer relay that puts the pump on full when you turn the ing off.

the sensor failure isent a problem if you have your limits and failed readings set up correctly.

[mefmotorsport]

Mef. How well is it working. I'd been thinking of how best to do this.

Interested to see the results?

Thanks

I havn't had the engine running recently such that I can evaluate the changes I've made. I'm too busy with painting the car at present. Also the water header tank is removed for welding some mounting brackets. As soon as I get it all back together I'll do some evaluation of the water pump control and report back!

Martin

[RTR75]

After reading and re-reading, question...
Are you planning on using the PWM circuit used for the turbo waste in AUX2?
As I am also looking to do the same but want to rum my pump PWM'ed.
Second, looking at the manual, this could be done with my S60...correct?

[mefmotorsport]

I wasn't really considering PWM, just using the fan output to drive the relay for the pump. The problem for me is that all the AUX outputs dont work when the engine isn't running. However, the fan output does continue to work when there's no crank pulses.

Martin

[RTR75]

I was afraid you were going to say that

So should I start a new thread to see if someone has run a coolant pump using the PWM for controlling the water temp.

I would think that you would want to have some flow before you have reached the preset temp of the sensor turn on the pump? If you could wire in the pump using the PWM you can have a small/continuous flow through the engine, raising the temp of all of the coolant.

So then the question I would propose, is it better to have the coolant flowing after the engine is turned off for cooling down or would it do more harm than good not having any coolant flowing until it hits the full on temp?

[mefmotorsport]

I cant see why you would need any flow (other than natural convection) whilst the engine is warming up. It should warm up quicker anyway with no flow and once a preset temperature is realised, say 65 degrees then I intend to switch on the pump. I know the water temperature might initially drop but I cant see it being much and in any case the engine will be rapidly getting hotter and hotter anyway so all the water will get warmed very quickly.

As I see it, stopping an engine whilst it is red hot and having no water flowing at all like with the mechanical pump, can't be a good thing, surely it's better to keep it flowing and bring the water and whole engine back down to say 60 degrees before switching it off?

Martin

[stevieturbo]

I think I would like some flow even when warming up ( heater inside the car ? ) if only to ensure the engine doesnt warm unevenly.

[RTR75]

I cant see why you would need any flow (other than natural convection) whilst the engine is warming up. It should warm up quicker anyway with no flow and once a preset temperature is realised, say 65 degrees then I intend to switch on the pump. I know the water temperature might initially drop but I cant see it being much and in any case the engine will be rapidly getting hotter and hotter anyway so all the water will get warmed very quickly.

As I see it, stopping an engine whilst it is red hot and having no water flowing at all like with the mechanical pump, can't be a good thing, surely it's better to keep it flowing and bring the water and whole engine back down to say 60 degrees before switching it off?

Martin

I am asking because I have read where other people have bypassed their heater core not understanding they have done away with the cooling system bypass/bleeder and have had head gasket problems. They were running a thermostat, let me add that. It was not immediate failure it was over time and repeatedly.

This is why I am asking, that’s all

[mefmotorsport]

OK, mines slightly different as I do have the heater and although I have no thermostat as such, I have modified it so it flows water in the route intended when it is fully open (it's a sort of routing valve as well as a thermostat)