mefmotorsport wrote:The thing is most engines will usually start (reluctantly) with the crank sensor reversed wired on DTA ecu's but they don't rev cleanly or drive properly, when you had it mapped was it on the old or new loom?
All you need to do test with a simple ohm or continuity meter from the crank sensor connector pin through to the S40 crank sensor input pin (19) and also to the ground (21), make sure its the same way around as in the old loom.
The dyno has its own loom , my one wasn't used as at the time it wasn't made , when I had the engine back from the dyno we fitted it in the car and it was sent off to have the loom made to fit.
Right sorted now !
Got another crank sensor in yesterday from a dealer , and they give you a new type now that needs the wiring changed , so fitted that , er and it still didn't work ! did an oscilloscope test through the ECU and there was nothing , changed it for the older style new crank sensor I had , did the ecu oscilloscope test and again nothing.
Fitted my original crank sensor and did a test and we were getting it to read , but it would take about 2 mins of cranking for it to finish the test , we had a reading but still no spark.
Left the electrician to it as I was busy sorting orders going out , so he finished wiring my stack oil pressure sensor and finally got the gear display sensor reading properly then checked the wiring again to the ecu , had the ecu out , put it back in , don't know what he did but we checked it again and on the ecu oscilloscope and we got a reading within a second or two , checked the spark plugs and we had a spark , fitted the plugs back in and it fired up.
Thank **** for that ! have messed about with the wiring while its running to see if it cuts out and all seems fine so don't know what he did , but now I don't care as its working and I can crack on finishing it ready for West Cork
Many thanks for all your input
Cheers Ian