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Hello, I am new to the forum and I need help to start my engine.
It's a mustang 5.0 1995 with twin spark coil packs and 36-1 trigger wheel with Ford VR sensor and a Ford cam synch, 42 lb/hr injectors (hopefully for turbo app later). I tried starting the engine with the GM map and set the crank sensor @ 300, cam @ -300 – the sensor placed at the 5th tooth before passing the gap, twin spark, and the car did start. I left the car few days and came back to start the tuning process, the car didn’t start.
Checked all wirings, and voltages, no issues, the DTA diag display reveals no sensor errors too. The engine is synchronized trying to start. Changed the spark plugs, no success.
I did some search on EDIS 8 and found that the VR sensor should be placed at the fifth tooth after passing the gap. If the crank sensor position is at 40 then where should the cam sensor position be? I tried 20 degrees and -340 degrees but no success.

Am I missing something?

Sorry, the comments are flipped for the attachments

I've been reading and thinking more about it, the new calculations I come across are crank @ 40 degrees and cam is at tooth 6 after gap so should be 60 AFTC or -290 BTDC.
Are these values correct? (confused about the crank since I have 15 degrees of ignition in the base map, so maybe it should be 35?)

Don't worry about the cam setting for now. Just focus on the crank trigger, you need to measure the crank rotation in degrees BTDC as the gap passes the sensor, the exact place on the gap is pictured in the manual. Turn sequential off for now. you can check the timing whilst cranking, just set the firing tooth on start up to 0 so as to not confuse your self. Then enter the correct sensor position in general engine settings.

The instruction manual tells you how do position the missing tooth and numbers etc. That will get you close enough to start.

Or do a scope trace with a plug in cyl 1 which should make a more obvious visual as to where TDC on cyl 1 is.

Then you can start to worry about the camshaft sensor.

Also ensure you've it wired and configured for the correct crank sensor, as the GM LS map would use a hall effect sensor....and a 60-2 wheel

Thanks for the replies. In fact i purchased the timing light today and will follow the instructions as Rob said tomorrow.
As for the general engine settings, I changed the GM data to suit my application that is the 36-1 trigger and missing tooth in addition to the tooth gap factor (1500). The wiring to the DTA is for magnetic sensor for the crank and hall for the cam ( as per the DTA manual and wiring instructions) to the correct pin outs.
I will test it today and will update accordingly.

Sorry for the very delayed reply, as the car did start and I started tuning too for idle, which is giving me hard time as I don't have enough stock data regarding the idle valve frequency and stuff, but 300 hz was a good start.The cam is still disabled as Rob suggested and everything is going on smooth.
Thanks guys and Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ALL

Make sure you double check the crank sensor position with a timing light. Dont forget that the reading is doubles in wasted spark mode. The cam sensor position will be displayed in the diagnostic screen, but it doesn't know which phase of the cycle it is on, the enter the reading on the sequential setting screen.

zuha_n1 wrote: ↑Sun Dec 27, 2020 9:42 pm Sorry for the very delayed reply, as the car did start and I started tuning too for idle, which is giving me hard time as I don't have enough stock data regarding the idle valve frequency and stuff, but 300 hz was a good start.The cam is still disabled as Rob suggested and everything is going on smooth.
Thanks guys and Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to ALL

Set the base idle PWM at a low number, say 10% and timing around 10-15deg. Valve frequency is less important overall.

If idle is too high, close the throttle blade, if it is too low, open the throttle blade until idle is close to where you want it.

If you move the blade, reset any idle control settings relating to throttle position as required. All this must be done on a hot running engine, not cold.

Then you can turn on idle control and it should have minimal work to do to achieve your target, and also it should have minimal ability to try and cause a stall too, and when cold you can look at whatever is needed to give a raised idle when cold.

but you need a good stable hot idle first before worrying about cold settings.

As for the crank sensor, I checked with the timing light and this is how the engine started. As for the cam, I checked it on the diagnostic display and it reads 20 degrees, but not active yet.
For the idle tune, In fact I had to increase the base ignition to 20 that started the car as 10 and 15 didn't work it out.
I opened the throttle blade few percents and it works great. I started tuning the PWM idle map with the engine warm and the ranges vary in the 30-40%, I also started tuning the base fuel map to avoid spark plug fouling.
So far so good. Will keep you posted
Thanks guys.