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If the throttle is closed, and there are no air leaks. Then physically block off the idle valve and see what happens.

If the engine does not stop, you do have an air leak or your throttle is not closed.

AND your PID idle settings you posted were terrible and should not be used.

It has been explained very clearly what you need to do many times. Do it, and ignore any form of closed loop until you have the basics resolved.

if i had an air leak the why the idle is stable when the engine is warm ?

i will unplug the idle control wires to stop it...if it is 30% open then the engine will suck air for the idle control and i will remove it permanently to see what will happen

iceman_n wrote:if i had an air leak the why the idle is stable when the engine is warm ?

i will unplug the idle control wires to stop it...if it is 30% open then the engine will suck air for the idle control and i will remove it permanently to see what will happen

stable ? you said the idle was 1400rpm....it may be stable, but its still wrong, there is too much air getting in. SIMPLE.

Dont unplug the ISCV. Set it's value to say 5% and then adjust your idle using the throttle until it is say 800rpm, or around 0-100rpm lower than the idle you want to achieve.
You do not know what the default unplugged position of the valve is, so unplugging it is pointless.

And I'll repeat myself yet again. If you cannot achieve this idle speed using this method, either your throttle is not closed, or you have an air leak. Either the ISCV is too large, it is not closing, or there is another air leak. Either way, air is getting unto the engine when it shouldnt be.

Why do you make basic checks so difficult ? Please just do what has been asked and suggested by various people here, and life for everyone will be much easier.

And make sure your TPS etc is calibrated correctly so it can actually go into idle mode in the first place.