Re: Parasitic reduction: Pro/Con
Posted: Fri May 04, 2012 10:54 pm
The "massive voltage fluctuations" you're aluding to aren't even near that Steve . I get 11.5 to 12 volts idling at 1150RPM and a healthy and steady 14+ volts anywhere over 2K RPM.
Forget the street car needs, how much time do you think you spend below 2k in a 3.2L inline six race car that revs to 8K?
The whole reliability thing just doesn't make much sense to me either. Turning accesories slower, like Ignitionautosport mentions, ADDS reliability to these systems (at least in a racing environment) it doesn't take any away. On a 2:1 ratio (stock alternator gearing) at 8K the alternator is spinning at 16k. If I reduce the ratio to 1:1 I've cut the alts speed in half! How could this be detrimental to reliability given that the car spends 95% of it's life above the 2K RPM that gives me the steady 14V you all seem to find so important? Trust me, I know I need the strongest voltage possible but as mentioned I've got it where/when it counts. Same goes for the water pump and power steering pump (if I had one...).
Forget the street car needs, how much time do you think you spend below 2k in a 3.2L inline six race car that revs to 8K?
The whole reliability thing just doesn't make much sense to me either. Turning accesories slower, like Ignitionautosport mentions, ADDS reliability to these systems (at least in a racing environment) it doesn't take any away. On a 2:1 ratio (stock alternator gearing) at 8K the alternator is spinning at 16k. If I reduce the ratio to 1:1 I've cut the alts speed in half! How could this be detrimental to reliability given that the car spends 95% of it's life above the 2K RPM that gives me the steady 14V you all seem to find so important? Trust me, I know I need the strongest voltage possible but as mentioned I've got it where/when it counts. Same goes for the water pump and power steering pump (if I had one...).