S60 pro

[aaronglanza]

Hi gents, im new to the forum and stand-alone ecu's so be kind

I'm looking into fitting an S60 pro unit to my Toyota starlet glanza as my ignition system is maxed out on my piggy back ecu so I will be changing to coil hence going DTA.

I need to find out what I need to buy to fit this ecu I.e. what sensors, trigger wheel ect.....

Its a 1.3 4EFTE stage 4 forged engine and will be running a Garrett Gtx3071 aiming at 420bhp

Thank Aaron

[Roverdose]

from a quick look on the net, it doesnt have any crank sensor. so im guessing timing is done on the distributor.

there is a listing for a 1zz engine in the dta software, if the trigger is the same / possible fitment to yours? might be the easiest option.

other than that its a 36-1 trigger wheel on the front of the engine to set the timing up.

the rest is pretty simple, sensors are scalable in the software, or fit some known ones listed in the manual / software.

Drew

[aaronglanza]

from a quick look on the net, it doesnt have any crank sensor. so im guessing timing is done on the distributor.

there is a listing for a 1zz engine in the dta software, if the trigger is the same / possible fitment to yours? might be the easiest option.

other than that its a 36-1 trigger wheel on the front of the engine to set the timing up.

the rest is pretty simple, sensors are scalable in the software, or fit some known ones listed in the manual / software.

Drew

Yes currently it is running a dizzy but as its maxed out it will be removed. I've been told that I need a crank position sensor and trigger wheel for it to count the notches.

I have been thinking aem sensors as they are proven and a direct fit with dta as far as I'm aware

[katana]

Yes currently it is running a dizzy but as its maxed out it will be removed. I've been told that I need a crank position sensor and trigger wheel for it to count the notches.

I have been thinking aem sensors as they are proven and a direct fit with dta as far as I'm aware

Puzzled on the above statement - how can you 'max out' a dizzy?
All it does is rotate and send sparks to 4 different leads! You might be taxing the ign coil beyond its means but that should be an easy upgrade to higher output coil!
Dizzy pick-ups can be used but timing accuracy will be limited with only 4 teeth running at half crank speed! Easy route is add a 36-1 tooth wheel to the crank and retain the dizzy modified to signal TDC #1 and you've got fully sequential fuel and timing or loose the dizzy, add 2No. bike twin tower Dyna Coils and you'll have hi voltage wasted sparks that quite happily keeps 500+hp turbo bikes running at 12,000rpm!

[stevieturbo]

Where in the world are you ?

You dont need to use AEM sensors, there are lists of part numbers of readily available ones from normal Ford, GM etc vehicles on the DTA manual.
http://www.dtafast.co.uk/Downloads/Manu ... Manual.pdf

You will probably need to change the Throttle Position Switch, as far as I am aware, the Starlet uses a switch, rather than a potentiometer.

You might be able to use the dizzy, the OEM has two triggers inside. One is 24 teeth I think, not 100% sure on the phase pattern, but I think it is 4 teeth.

http://www.autoshop101.com/forms/h23.pdf

I dont know whether DTA will work with this though, best to email DTA
If DTA is happy to decode this, you can still retain the dizzy for triggering only, and use the ecu to fire coil on plug or coil near plug, or a coil pack.

or you can fit a dedicated crank trigger wheel and sensor, 36-1 or similar. In many ways, that is the easiest solution. Just leave the dizzy there doing nothing.

But read the manual, it does cover all of this. Your OEM temperature sensors may well be usable if you can discover the voltage/resistance scalings.

[aaronglanza]

Reason for the change from dizzy to coil is I'm blowing the spark out at 1.75bar of boost which isn't good when im going for 2bar+ so I'm changing to Honda vfr 800 coils ( same as Honda civic )

The 36-1 crank wheel is the way I'm thinking of going.

I am in Wales buddy.

The reason I said I was thinking about using aem sensors is a Freind uses them on his drag starlet running the dta s60.

The tps will be changed to an automatic switch to sort that problem.

[stevieturbo]

36-1 is easiest, as you know you can just fit it and it will work. Although I'm sure you could configure the dizzy to work somehow.
You may wish to retain the dizzy for a cam/phase trigger so you can run sequential injection. Using large injectors on a small engine with batch fire can lead to issues at low load.

DTA prefers to see a single tooth for a cam trigger. If one wheel in the dizzy has 4 teeth, you could remove 3 so it gives you that single tooth.

TPS must be a potentiometer, not a switch. Or do you mean the automatic version of the car uses a potentiometer TPS ?

Check the DTA manual, it lists part numbers of suitable sensors. Or Martin/MEF on this site can supply you with any parts you need.

But really as far as sensors go...all you need is crank trigger, air temp, coolant temp, TPS and MAP sensor.
So really not a huge amount. More may be optional, but those are the basic essentials.
MAP sensors are easy to scale yourself, temp sensors are not so easy. So it's often easiest to buy sensors with known scalings. They arent expensive anyway

[aaronglanza]

I will need sequential fire due to using 750-1000cc injectors and like you said it being a small engine just makes its safer !

I will have to look into changing the dizzy to cam trigger, I hadn't thought about that.

I already use an auto tps for my piggy back which works fine, it is the version off an auto starlet.

Map sensor is sorted aswell from the piggy back I had.

[Rob Stevens]

You could use 8 smaller injectors and not bother using sequential, 1000cc injectors should be good for 800bhp? or I might have got my sums wrong there

[ignitionautosport]

I've had an S80 running in a test setup on a 4EFE using a 4EFTE distributor to get enough teeth. It had some intermittent issues syncing on start-up due to low-ish resolution and no missing teeth I believe, but ran well.
I used Trigger number 6 (Honda no missing teeth). I don't have laptop handy or I'd give you trigger angles.

Personally I'd throw a 36-1 on the crank , and retain the distributor for Cam signal if you wanted, could still use the stock trigger in there for that. The only reason I didn't go crank trigger was because I was doing testing on the engine for EFI in a speedway class and just needed to prove the point. Longer term I would.

4EFTE I used had 24 teeth (so 12 crank equivalent) and a single "Cam" trigger. The pickup looks like 2 cam sensors but it's not.