No rpm signal sometimes...... which means No Spark or Fuel

[Rob Stevens]

Just leave it all on batch for now, you need to check the twin spark box in general engine settings so it can run without cam sensor, assuming you are using the standard COP's with a driver each. Really, just keep it simple to get you started, once its running fine then look at using the cam sensor but to be honest I wouldn't bother unless you are doing fuel endurance or an every day road car that you plan on 3 days dyno time to build the sequential injection map thing.

[proutyc]

many thanks Rob.

Sounds alot easier now and its on a race car so economy not really an issue

[proutyc]

Thanks again all.

Went to the car for an hour last night and it runs. Thanks again for everyones help

[proutyc]

Here is a link of first start. Idle way to low and better now

[youtube] www.youtube.com/watch?v=p5XI0kLnPxE [/youtube]

Problem I having now is for some reason, and not all the time, is that when I crank it over it can take like 10 seconds of cranking to get an rpm signal and other times wont get a signal at all. but as soon as it does it fires straight into life and appears to idle well and lamada is good.

Any ideas on what this may be.

Thanks again

[stevieturbo]

And what's battery voltage at the ecu when cranking ?

[proutyc]

It does drop low and on real time its flashs red. Not sure why its draining so badly. I also use the Hayabusa starter relay to power the ecu. Was thinking whether I change it to run direct from battery isolator.

Not sure as to the cause but noticed that its drops to 10v on cranking and this is when its charged (sitting around 13 volts before hitting the starter)

Thanks again for the help

[ignitionautosport]

10V is not abnormal on cranking (at least in a car) so I wouldn't worry unless there are other voltage drops. Confirm the battery isn't sitting higher with a voltmeter while cranking. If it drops to 10V also then you don't have a drop issue, just starter draw which I'd say is normal probably.

[Mr Drew]

This may not be related but just the other day I was talking to somebody who had a hayabusa in a race car with mbe management and was experiencing similar problems, they found if they put a big slave battery on it would fire up every time. After a lot of back and forth between the engine builder, owner and mbe it was decided that a combination of marginal cranking speed and few crank teeth was causing the ecu to occasionaly just 'give up' waiting for the next tooth on the crank. I believe mbe re wrote the ecu software and all is well now.

[stevieturbo]

****...typed reply then the damn site went down.

In short, 2 wire mag sensors need "speed" past the sensor to create a big enough voltage to be seen. ie check the scope.

if this is too low, consider switching to a 3 wire hall sensor, which will produce a good signal at any speed.

[mefmotorsport]

As I understand it you're supposed to grind off a second tooth and set it to 24-2 and 105 degrees. there's a map on the dta disc that tells you this.

Martin