Fiat Punto GT

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I managed to make the valve to work ... Stevie was absolutely right

but, but



This would take me, probably, only a decade to make it work properly .

So, i was out fooling myself trying to stop the hunting ... The thing is that engine feels absolutely better as far i drive out of the idle

These are right now the current settings .
When the fan works, idle stop hunting
When the fan not working, starts a low frequency hunt around the 900 rpm target.
Leaving the idle (e.g) start moving and reaching a traffic light, eventually coming back to idle . Stays stable to about 900 and then hunting season is on,
until the load of the fan is on and stabilise the idle .

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i was thinking of make my own accurate columns or may say better my own columns which interest me more .
May be do this today .
Although is christmas time (family maters), but it's kinda fun playing with DTA .

One question tho, when i mark many cells that wanted to be the same value with one move on a map, how you do that ?
tried everything i know but haven't make it happen right now.

[stevieturbo]

Firstly. RTFM

Then highlight the cells you want to change then press F5

It's a shitty way to have to make changes, but that's just how DTA offer it.

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Hi Guys and Merry Christmas,
As far for the idle issue, i found out that my hardware ain't right
Wrong 1,
The bleed pipe from the idle valve was bleeding out to the atmosphere.
I thought that it could be able to close it completely when comes out of the operating range .I was wrong, so i sort it out and fix that by connecting it to the T.B/ intercooler pipe .
And because it was air that was missing out from the system, I was led to redone the fuel map .
Now on it works really well, with a solid idle at 900 rpm and with idle valve disabled . ( or any other help )
And because it is disabled, it is resting in an slight open position that keeps the system in balance .
Thus of the slight open of the valve is leading me to realize the wrong 2 .
Wrong 2,
My throttle body ain't having throttle stops nor a screw bleed .
It closes completely when foot is off and relies only on idle valve rest opening .
As i can understand, I gotta make a bleed screw to the system aiming 100-200 rpm more than the target idle, in order to set the idle and then engage the idle valve.
In your view, i should adjust the idle with an idle screw plus the resting opening of the idle valve disabled or completely closed, like it was never there ?

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If you please explain to me the meaning of "Durations in turns" and "Pedal speed measuring time "
Please can you give me an example so i can understand it .
The user manual have a poor explanation (or i don't get it ) and just because it is a trial and error function, i would like to have in mind the functions of these two parameters of how they apply in real action .

[stevieturbo]

Both fairly self explanatory.

Pedal speed measuring time = If this is set to 1 second, the ecu only looks every second to see what the pedal ( ie your foot ) is doing.
So a higher time could make response sluggish. Or it could be used to filter out a jumpy throttle. Too fast and it may miss or be too responsive and keep adding fuel when not needed.

Duration in turns. Fuel is applied for this number of engine turns

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Many, many thanks Stevie !
Now its clear for me
and again, many thanks mate .

[katana]

Venting the boost line to atmosphere is down and dirty way of increasing dynamic boost in that the boost over and above spring pressure that would normally act on the diaphragm and open the gate is vented. Not the most efficient way and does boost spike.
It used to be single stage ie switch and air valve - now you control the valve via PWM to vary the boost. But it's still old skool! Now standalone boost controllers allow tighter control over the gate by applying boost or separate pressurised air source to both side of the diaphragm and varying the pressure either side via a MAP sensor monitoring the plenum pressure.
See http://www.ams1000.com/

[stevieturbo]

Unless you're a dedicated drag racer, I simply cannot see the point/value of the AMS1000...plus it costs about as much as an S60 ecu if not more.

And you can blow air into both chambers with any PWM based boost control setup if you desire.

I'm sure the AMS is good....but then so are a lot of other things I'd be buying well before it.

[ignitionautosport]

Unless you're a dedicated drag racer, I simply cannot see the point/value of the AMS1000...plus it costs about as much as an S60 ecu if not more.

And you can blow air into both chambers with any PWM based boost control setup if you desire.

I'm sure the AMS is good....but then so are a lot of other things I'd be buying well before it.

I agree, I often think people just cbf setting their shit up properly so spend $$ instead.

[katana]

Interesting comments and to a degree I would agree but the numbers of bike drag racers that thought they could get by with the on-board ECU boost controls even from Motec & such top end kit have been proved over and again. Personally, I use the AMS on my road bike in GPS mode which makes putting a potential 370hp through a contact patch the size of your palm considerably easier. The car guys didn't think they needed sophisticated control until they started coming up against others launching harder and using more power than they could put to the ground! Power is nothing without control!
And forgive my ignorance but I didn't realise DTA featured two independent PWM channels to control air ported to both sides of the gate valve! So excuse me if I cbf'd to waste my time poncing around with something that doesn't do what I need - so choose to spend my $$ / ££ on something that does. I guess you'd still advocate integral wastegates rather than standalone as it involves spending money!